I know most of you might be reading this wearing shorts and a bikini and the last thing you wanna think about is Fall, right? But, would it be possible to convince you to stay if I say the three magic words? (no, not those ones) I’m talking about Paris – Haute Couture. Oh, it sounds like poetry to the ears of any fashionista, doesn’t it? 😉
From Sunday, July 3rd to Thursday, July 7th Haute Couture shows were held in the City of Lights. Maybe some avant-garde creations are not everyone’s cup of tea, but you cannot deny the exquisite level of detail and precise finishing of these garments, let alone the fabrics and materials they’re made of. In this post I’m sharing some of my faves and also why they are my faves. I know it’s longer than my usual posts but if you keep reading you’ll discover some interesting stories and the inspirations behind these breathtaking collections. 🙂 Let the first approach to Fall 2016 be a classy one and enjoy!
The main inspiration for this stunning collection was the also stunning city of New York. Saab made sure we all get it as he went more graphic than ever by making skyscraper printed references and sharper and more architectonic lines for his dresses. For a designer who’s known for his monochrome jewel-toned gowns, it was a pleasant surprise to see him out of his comfort zone playing with birds and heart prints or using other couture resources such tulle flowers embroidered in 3-D apart from his traditional crystal embroideries. Don’t get me wrong, those details are always jaw-dropping gorgeous but yay for creative development.
We’ve all heard the buzz around this show: the Trevi Fountain, Kendall Jenner opening, Karl’s 50th anniversary with the brand… Yep, it was that huge. In fact I just read in Vogue that “it will go down as one of the most majestic show venues ever” among with Fendi’s 2007 show on the Great Wall. But let’s go back to the core of this fashion show: the fashion. It was inspired by a 1914 book of fairy tales, “East of the Sun and West of the Moon”, hence the name of this collection: “Legends and Fairy Tales”. The models looked indeed straight out of a fairy tale, and if we consider that this fairy tale was created by a legend in the fashion industry then the title sounds quite accurate, right? 😉
Such a dreamy collection. I feel like this season’s Valli girl is über feminine and even angelical, yet confident and mysterious. You can tell that mostly because of two things: the silhouettes and the use of color. The silhouettes at the beginning were cute empress waistlines and maybe some off-shoulder action, then the sleeves started taking more volume and at the end we had delicate capes for the length-floor gowns and dramatic trails for short dresses. The same pattern goes for Valli’s use of color: starting with ethereal white and super pale shades of pink and light blue which later turned into black and deep purple pieces with some occasional pops of red.
There’s something so naturally elegant about Armani, even in their couture collections! Yes, even if the models are wearing black velvet and Swarovski crystal embroidery. This collection had some 80s elements camouflaged by a constantly present glamour. I’m talking about harem pants with a perfectly cut pied-de-poule jacket, thick peplum details in crystal embroidered gowns or big black ribbons on the shoulder of a silky satin diva-ish dress. All in all, Mr. Armani’s collections are always a masterclass in elegance and class.
“Behind the girls in the show, there are 200 more who make what they wear”, said Karl Lagerfeld about the backdrop of his new Chanel couture collection. The people behind the models were actual ateliers doing their job. They had their dummies, fabrics, sewing machines, cutting tables. I think that in such a fast paced world like this one, we’re starting to lose the ability to sit down and observe, in this case, observing and admiring the level of details of a clothing item AND the process it takes for getting it done. Karl gave the attendees the opportunity to see live one of fashion’s oldest practices: how haute couture is done, how that particular pattern made of paillettes was done, how that embroidery ombrè got there, how those tweed jackets got such a neat cut. He reminded us why haute couture is a form of art.
Can you get any better than a couture collection of Valentino inspired by Shakespeare? Due to the 400th anniversary of William Shakespeare’s death, the designers Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri transported us to the Elizabethan age. We’re suddenly surrounded by high white ruffs, doublets, pearl-embroidered brocades, puffed sleeves and drama, a lot of drama. They say it took 580 hours to embroider the following Shakespeare quote on one of the dresses: ‘If you love me I’m in your heart, if you hate me I’m in your mind.’ You know, speaking of drama…
In one word: movement. I believe that was the word Donatella had in her mind when designing this collection. She was proud to state that they toned down a bit of the sexiness traditionally associated with the brand, at least for this show. I know, I know, by the end of it she did bring sexy back, but can we blame her? After all this is Versace and we love it because of that. 😉 Draping was clearly the chosen technique for the collection. Donatella made sure to showcase her versatile draping skills in different pieces, all of which seemed to fall in the models’ bodies almost by magic and in the most flattering way.
As you can tell by the number of pictures, this one was my favorite collection of the Haute Couture week. With Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody” playing on the background and models walking the runway in velvet, crepe, tulle, and chiffon gowns, Zuhair Murad took the concept of boho chic to a whole new level. “She’s young, modern, and rock, but elegant at the same time (…) Her dresses are full of jewels, transparency, and tattoo ornamentation”, described the designer after the show. Surprisingly, the matching fedoras managed to make total sense when combined with these gorgeous couture gowns, and they provided an extra cool attitude to the models. I’m a rocker girl at heart, and I can assure you that only Zuhair Murad can make rock look this chic! 😉
What do you think guys? Which was your favorite collection? Let me know in the comments!
Images: Vogue.com – Collages: Style by Deb